Lessons to Learn

Last weekend, I visited the home of a friend and co-worker. She had asked me to come over not only to chat, but also to photograph her immediate and extended family. I figured that this would be a perfect opportunity to dust off my Alien Bees studio lights, and take some portraits for them. I did not realize at the time, but there would be several things that I would still need to watch out for.

I took a wide variety of equipment out, including my Canon EOS-5D SLR, a number of lenses (many in my collection are now Canon's L-series, which is typically considered the "good stuff"), an Alien Bee B400 and B800, two silver/white umbrellas, light stands, a Sekonic L-758DR flash meter, three PocketWizard Plus II transceivers (for remotely firing the strobes), and a Photoflex Multidisc reflector (which was used for some photos outdoors). That weekend I mainly used a Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens, but I did use a Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS lens for a short time (it was generally too "long").

I got the light set up, and I got out my light meter. Since this was the first time that I had used it for flash photography, I had to pull up the owner's guide on my friend's computer. I was planning to use the L-758DR PocketWizard capability. It took about ten minutes, but I figured out how to fire the strobes with the meter, and to also understand the peculiarities of the meter. I adjusted the camera and strobe output in order to get a proper exposure. During this photo shoot, I think that I had the exposure generally correct. Unfortunately, I had other issues, as seen in this photo (the color may be washed out since this was shot in Adobe RGB color space and has not yet been converted to sRGB).



1. Distractions: It's like I wasn't even trying to take a decent photograph. On the left hand side of the photo you see several distracting items. I just wonder if I'm not paying attention to those things when I am looking through the viewfinder (because whether they appear is dependent on the focal length used). Anyway, I should have moved those items out of way.

2. Annoying reflection: The fireplace facing is marble and is highly reflective. At the top left corner of the marble you can see a reflection of the umbrella. Although you can't make out the spokes of the umbrella, you can clearly see the hotspots caused by the folds of the umbrella.

3. Color balance is off: The adult in the picture above was wearing a purple sweater. In the photo the color does look pretty close to the way that I remember it, but when viewed larger it seems to be too blue. I did notice this during the shoot, because on the viewfinder her sweater definitely appeared too blue.

4. Dust on the sensor: The photo above does not show a rather large dust particle. It was obscured by the adult's hair, but it is definitely there and was present during my whole weekend of shooting. I had shot pictures on the previous day at the Franklin Park Conservatory. Many of those pictures were quite busy with leaves, flowers and so on in the picture. They were also typically shot with a wider aperture. These family portraits on the other hand was mostly shot at f/9.0. Smaller apertures tend to accentuate the dust. I figure that of the 89 photos I shot at their house that day, I have 53 where I need to fix the dust.

5. Shadows: I suppose the shadows are not too distracting, but I should have tried to avoid them. I own three Alien Bees strobes, but one quit working a couple of years ago and I have never sent it back in for repair. More light would help with the shadows.

6. Posing: I don't know squat about posing. I relied on the mother and father mostly for posing. I did speak up sometimes when I saw a particularly annoying reflection in someone's eyeglasses, but that's about it.

How to eliminate or lessen these issues?

#1 and #2: For distractions and reflections, I am actually looking at two types of products that should be able to take care of that. The first item is a backdrop and its accompanying supports. I am currently looking at the hand-painted muslin backdrops from Aura Backdrops. They are 10' by 20' in size and include a rod pocket for the support beam. The one issue that I can see with a backdrop that I haven't encountered yet with walls, is that the backdrop will need more light on it, to separate it from the people. I can relegate my Alien B400 (the least powerful) to a shorter backlight stand to take care of that, but then I need another Alien Bee unit, I think. I am looking at the Alien Bee B1600 (their most powerful) which can also be used with the second type of product I am looking at for getting rid of reflections (not distractions). That item is the softbox. A proper softbox should be able to provide a nice uniform light that, even if it is reflected, might be mistaken for something else (such as a window). It's hard to mistake the reflection of an umbrella. I am currently looking at Photoflex's Multidome. The Multidome has an internal diffusion panel and the front diffusion panel and also has optional gold and silver inserts to modify the light.

#3: There are two ways to be proactive about color balance. The first is to shoot in RAW. The 5D supports RAW and I need to start using it. As RAW implies, the camera is recording the raw data from the image sensor. Color balance can be adjusted on the computer later. The other thing that can be done to be proactive (whether or not RAW is used) is to shoot a gray target under the same lighting conditions that will be used for the portraits. I've got a Lastolite EZYBalance 20-inch target on the way. What I notice on the JPEGs that I did shoot that day is that prior to me adjusting the camera's white balance from auto to flash, the colors appeared too cool. After changing the white balance, the colors appear too warm. Of course, I still haven't converted them to the sRGB color space. Shooting a gray target should allow me to nail the color balance.

#4. Dust on the sensor: I didn't see this until I got home. The dust is too small to see on the 5D's LCD display, but it clearly shows up on 19" monitors. How do I eliminate dust? The first is to be aware of it. If you take a longer focal length lens, manually focus it to infinity, stop it down to a smaller aperture, and shoot against a plain background, the dust particles should be easy to see. I already have the complete VisibleDust kit including the lighted-loupe, static brush, and swabs, and I also have a Giottos Rocket Blower. I need to start carrying those items with me. Of course, short of examining the actual sensor each time, which I feel is just an invitation for dust, the problem is going to be trying to see dust on the 5D's LCD display. Now that dust is on my photos, I've got to learn how to eliminate it. I figured Photoshop had a tool for dust removal. Sure enough, one of the best tools is the spot healing brush, but I currently have Photoshop CS, and the spot healing brush was not released until Photoshop CS2. However, in a couple of days (when my latest B&H order arrives), I will have upgraded to Adobe Photoshop CS4.

#5. Shadows: As I alluded to earlier, another key/fill light could help out. If I buy a B1600 and and have my B800 repaired, then I will have four strobes. One can do a lot with four strobes.

#6. Posing: I've just got to learn how to pose people. I recently purchased one of Monte Zucker's portrait books. Of course that book contains just one person's opinion, but his portraits were usually highly-regarded.

So that's quite a lengthy post, but I wanted to share with you some of the pitfalls with shooting portraits, and I hope that you will learn from my mistakes. By the way, I thought that the Photoflex Multidisc that I used (for the first time) outside worked quite well, as shown in this photo.



Until next time.

Ned

Acquiring New Lens

The photography gear that I own is based on the Canon EOS system, specifically the EOS-5D. I also own a Canon PowerShot A650 IS point-and-shoot camera for taking on my business trips. I'm planning to acquire the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM lens in the coming days. It will nearly round out the lenses that I feel that I need. One lens that will still be missing is the EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM. That lens will replace the Sigma 14mm lens that I had previously. There are other lenses that I would like to have, but my sights are on all "L" series lenses and they are expensive. I've considered such lenses as the EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM, the EF 180mm f/3.5L USM Macro, the EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM, and a wide-angle tilt-shift lens. I suppose if I had to prioritize those lenses, I would get the tilt-shift lens as it would allow me to experiment with something new.

I think that this coming weekend, I am going to get my 85mm f/1.8 prime lens out and take some pictures with it. I've had that lens for six months or so and have not used it much. I'm also going to take the opportunity to use my Expodisc. For those not familiar with the Expodisc, it is a diffusing disk that clicks onto the end of the lens. It doesn't stay there, but it serves two purposes while it is there. It transmits 18% of the light falling upon it, and it is neutral in tone. The 18% number is significant because that is medium gray. You snap the Expodisc onto the lens, then set the camera to Manual mode, then you choose your aperture or shutter speed and dial it in. Then you adjust the other parameter (shutter speed or aperture) until the camera's exposure meter says that you have a proper exposure. You need to make sure that the camera is bathed in the same light that the subject will be, which works perfectly on a sunny day. Once you are in the proper light, you snap a picture. Then you configure the camera for a custom white balance. Most cameras will ask you to choose a picture to base the custom white balance off of. That picture will be the one you took previously of the Expodisc. Now you remove the Expodisc and put it away. You leave the camera in Manual mode. Assuming the lighting stays the same, the exposure settings will stay the same. You can always change the aperture or shutter speed, but you have to change the other value accordingly. For example, if you had initially chosen f/4 at 1/500-sec, and you wanted to go to f/8. That's two stops. You need to lengthen the shutter speed by two stops. For shutter speeds a stop is either a doubling or halving. In this case, a one stop change is 1/125-sec, and two stops is 1/60-sec. 1/60-sec is the new shutter speed. Using a tool such as the Expodisc or an external incident light meter is especially beneficial when the lighting is tricky. The Expodisc is a fairly new product, but I've been using an incident light meter for years (until recently a Minolta Flash Meter IV). I believe my first use of the light meter was to determine the proper exposure for a snowy scene. I've read several books and websites that simply say if you have a sunlit snowy scene, then overexpose by such-and-such stops, but no matter what number they mention, I cannot remember. For me, it is easier to use the light meter.

Assuming that I take some pictures this weekend, I'll try to post them to my Picasa site.

Ned

Canon EOS-5D Mark II Announced

This new digital SLR was announced a few days ago. I currently own a 5D and it is a great camera. I feel that I am taking higher quality pictures with it than ever before (even during the film years). Part of the better quality is due to the fact that over the past year, I have upgraded many of my Canon EF lenses to their "L"-series versions. Canon announced this camera, though, and there are a number of compelling reasons for me to consider the upgrade.

The new camera has a suggested price of $2699, and my favorite online dealer, B & H Photo and Video, is taking pre-orders at that price, too.

Here are some of the new features, and what they mean to me:

• 21 megapixel resolution: higher resolution is usually better (for a given sensor size, however, the individual pixel sites are smaller, and don't collect as much light. Therefore, they need to be amplified more, and that means more noise). You start out with more information. It can always be downsampled accordingly.
• dust reduction system: including a vibrating element over the CMOS sensor, plus the ability to manually clean the sensor. I've had my 5D less than a year, but I can already see the results of a couple of specks of dust in my pictures.
• ISO ranges from 100 to 6400, plus expansion down to 50 and up to 25,600. I've already seen some on-line samples shot at 12,800 and 25,600. I felt that the ISO 12,800 were quite usable. The reason why high ISO capability is desirable is that there are certain times when you may not be able to use flash. High ISO might mean the difference between getting the picture or not.
• 3.9 frames per second: this is a small improvement over the 5D in terms of continuous shooting. I don't do a lot of this type of shooting, so this is not too important to me.
• DIGIC IV processor: what this means is that the analog-to-digital conversion is performed at the 14-bit level instead of the 12-bit level of the 5D. 16,384 shades of grey versus 4,096. The results should be smoother tones.
• Lens Peripheral Illumination Correction: some of the wide angle lenses when wide open have a vignetting problem (light fall-off). This feature helps to counteract that.
• SRAW1 and SRAW2: I guess that these are different sizes of RAW file. The 5D Mark II also allows you to separately control the sizes of the JPEG and RAW files.
• AF Microadjustment: if a lens doesn't focus perfectly, you can tweak its focus. You can do that for up to 20 lenses. There is also a global camera AF microadjustment.
• Three-inch 920k pixel electronic viewfinder: this should be an adequate size and should be quite crisp. Supposedly there is also an ambient light sensor to control the backlighting level for improved viewing outdoors.
• 1080p Movie mode: There is the ability to record high-definition movies in 1080p using the H.264 codec. Suitable inputs and outputs (including HDMI, and microphone-in) are provided.
• Water Resistance: the weather sealing of this camera is supposedly improved over the 5D. That's a good thing.
• IR port: for using a infrared remote control to snap your own picture.
• Live View: probably one of the best new features. Normally on a SLR camera, you are using an optical viewfinder (which is quite decent on a camera such as this), but Live View allows you to compose the picture on the viewfinder and see live luminance histograms, fine tune focusing (using magnification), and compose a shot at a weird angle.
• Auto ISO: When engaged this feature attempts to choose an ISO speed that preserves the (1/focal length) rule. This is useful when using a telephoto lens.
• Flash Control in the camera: I own a Canon Speedlite 580EX II. Supposedly you can control the flash's functions in the camera.
• Face Detection: also a part of Live View. This is an autofocusing component.
• Histograms: an alternating luminance and RGB histogram can be displayed. No more having to go into a menu and choose one.
• Copyright metadata: The camera can encode this data into the JPEG saving you from having to do it later.
• Shutter Cycle rating of 150,000: I believe that the 5D is rated at 100,000. Therefore the 5D Mark II has a more durable shutter.
• AF-On button: normally autofocusing is initiated by half-pressing the shutter release. This button allows you to autofocus separately.
• Buffer: Supposedly with a UDMA CompactFlash card, up to 310 JPEGs can be continuously shot with the camera.

Those are some pretty neat new features. I've also downloaded a couple of videos shot with this camera. Aside from the fact that my four year old computer has a little trouble with a 1080p H.264 video, I can tell that the quality is quite high. Another blogger promises to post some video that he shot during a 72-hour stint with the camera.

I went to B & H's website. I know that the camera won't be available for a couple of months. I tried to add my email address to a "Notify Me When Available" list. It wouldn't let me. The website said that interest in this camera is at an unprecendented level and the mailing list is full (I'm paraphrasing a little bit).

More on this subject in the future.